Kovilmalai Tribal Stories
Article Source : http://mayapott.com/blog-2
It is about
our short trip to the tribal settlement of Kovilmalai village in the month of
February in 2013. We were a group eight in two jeeps; one was an ex-Indian
military vehicle, a Mahindra 550 modified jeep that looked like a steady and
agile mountain horse. It had a 4 wheel drive and radial tyres. The second
vehicle was also a Mahindra make Commander Jeep with only two wheel drive, yet
with a powerful engine that can chase the former at equal speed. We left the
evening from Mayapott to Kanchiyar about 4 pm. It is a small spice growing
village set on the outskirts of Kattappana, the second largest new generation
spice growing area in Idukki district situated along the western banks of Idukki
reservoir. On the farthest end of Kanchiyar village lays a sleepy tribal
settlement along the banks of periyar lake named Kovilmalai.
After about
30 minutes drive from Mayapott we crossed the main highway and entered into the
forest tracks; the driver shifted gears for really off road drive. There was
literally no road, in some places the jeeps were like a trained mountain horse
trotted over from boulders to stones and to rubbles. After a couple of
kilometers rough road drive along the forest we reached a stream. Crossing the
stream meant as if we were going through cleansing procedure before we entered
the sacred sanctuaries of the virgin forests. The setting was of a romantic forest
with tunes of deep silence playing in back drop, except the slow speed noise of
our jeeps maneuvering through the tracks and some occasional bird songs. As a
trained physiotherapist, I am used to hear similar music of the forest during
my relaxation treatments. As soon as we have crossed the stream we were in a
totally different world. We saw small hamlets in clusters and singles and there
was obviously some tribal village folks moving around. Some of the houses had
lights possibly electric lamps, since the government had executed a development
program that made it possible.
Our journey
to the tribal village had single focus to pay visit to the king and experience
a slice of their life, collect interesting facts about their cross cultural
exposure with main stream society as I was accompanying a group of North
American Travel Journalists. As soon as we reached the house of the king, our
local guide informed our arrival and we were told that the king was on long
travel and had just reached while ago.
We had to wait about thirty
minutes as the king had to complete his rituals and evening pooja, once he
shall meet us at 7:30 pm. As we waited it was getting dark, we decided that we
shall explore around. To our amusement the tribal youth really did not look
like as per our expectations, many of the young people carried latest mobiles
phones. It was shocking news to our American journalists as the tribal you took
pictures of them using the latest Samsung galaxy or similar phones. As the king completed his rituals, we could
see him entering into the small temple of the goddess and lighted an oil lamp
then offered prayers. He sent his
minister to escort us to his house, as we entered we were greeted traditionally
and introduced us the Raja Matha (queen mother), minister and the king himself.
Kovilmalai
tribal community belonged to the mannan tribe of the high ranges spread over
several regions from Marayoor to Periyar. At present the community is headed by
their young king Raja Mannan. He is one among the two tribal kings recognized
by the government, the other one is in the north eastern state of Sikkim. The
interactive meeting with the king lasted for about forty -five minutes, during
which he shared with us an in depth knowledge about their history, culture,
food and the present living. The king is also a graduate in humanities and he
has very good vision for his people. Soon after the interview, what was in
stored for us was a surprise dance and
musical extravaganza. The travel writers were really tired of their long
journey and hectic schedule that they followed about a week; however the
vibrant and wild tribal beats of music and enigmatic, yet graceful movement
around the bonfire made everyone jump into rhythm. The elders piped instruments
and drums in harmony with the drums, while the young men danced in unison to
the beats. The spectators cheered with shouts, whistles and claps. The dance
was not a fast entertainment performance, for me it had some profound meaning
that touched the very fabric of the tribal bonding, engulfed between
inseparable myths and realities of life inside the forest. It was a treat worth
a life time.
As we said
good bye, the Raja Matha blessed us all for good luck and good health. We were
alighted and transported to a time that beckons a peaceful co-existence of an
eco-system of simplicity and truth, of nature and human beings.
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